Tunis to Gafsa to Sidi Bouzid

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You can just see the flag from the road. The only sign that this is where the "unemployed martyr" of Sidi Bouzid, Mohamed Bouazizi, is buried. 15 kilometres from where he set himself alight, set back enough from the road as to be hard to find, despite the increasingly regular visitors. It was a cousin of his on his way home who gave us the final directions off the road & to the cemetery.

A simple & as yet unpainted grave, in vast dry plains, a testament to the birth in death of such an unprecedented wave of a peoples screaming as one, for justice.

The Kasbah - before the second new interim government & the cleaning

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Mattresses, blankets, milk, water, bread of course bread, biscuits, medicine, paint, paper, pens & plastic when the weather turned, just the beginning of what was donated over the 6 day occupation of the Kasbah, one of Tunisia's most prestigious & manicured places, home to the office of the Prime Minister & the Ministry of Finance. It became a museum to the people of the south. The "Bouzideen", the people from Gafsa, Tela, Kesserine, Menzel Bouzaine, Rageub, Kairouan & of course Sidi Bouzid who came & stayed. Barely an inch untouched by their expressions of rage & relief. That was then. Today it is empty.  You can't get any where near it thanks to the provocation of the police by 30 or so teenagers from the capital, aliens in this exhausted crowd of southerners, who two days ago came & started shouting against the police. The army withdrew & the police came forward with their shields & helmets. Their Robocop garb. For 15 minutes they took the stones & ripped up pieces of pavement thrown at them before the order came to clean the house. The violence witnessed in the next hour was as cruel as that of the 14th when the Interior Ministry was overwhelmed. Gas, gas, every where. Not for the first time this cluster bomb of the air extinguished a life. An old man on hunger strike who didn't have the energy to run. Thumb still can't get hold of his name.* Rumours of 3 others dead are now going around.  (This official number of dead being put at 68 is looking increasingly ridiculous. More on the reality of that number being tripled in another post coming soon)

And so the rumours continue. One thing is for sure. Ghannoushi changed the make-up of his interim government for the second time in 10 days. 12 have been replaced. The big dogs have gone. The Foreign, Financial, Defence & Interior ministry heads have been replaced. How important this will be isn't yet clear, but it seems to have calmed the "degagist's" & preceded the people of the Kasbah to start packing & starting their journey south before they were forced out.

The painting & scrubbing has started & the clean up contiues, out of sight. An extraordinary week comes to an end. The intensity of the solidarity & community felt in that great anti-government camp is sure not to be as ephemeral as its existence. Despite the divisions, this is what rests. The pride of the people protecting their own.

*The name of the dead man is Omar Aawini.

The arabic in the last photo says "No to a military coup"

(This blog is an iPhone convert)

 

 

"The Freedom Caravan" brings people from Sidi Bouzid, Kesserine & Tela to the capital

They set off from Sidi Bouzid on foot, as is their will, for who can stop them? They were supposed to arrive on Tuesday but as the caravan grew & grew somewhere in the dead, cold hours of this morning drivers worked to get them to the governmental Kasbah by the time Ghannoushi the Prime Minister was set to start another of his interminable & maybe numbered days.

"The people want to bring down the government."  Sung over & over again. The Tunisian expression, "in repetition there are benefits" couldn't be more timely.

Just as a surreal but relative calm came to the Avenue, the focus shifts to the Kasbah. Despite their divisions, the energy, the force, the persistence of these voices will be heard. As news spread throughout the day of the arrival of the caravan from 250 kilometres south, many arriving for their first time in the capital, the carnival/protest grew. The exhausted lay on the outskirts, lying together in their stupor, some desperately fighting their heavy eyes with bread, cheese, milk, biscuits & fags, from an increasingly organised team of donators. People were lighting fags & throwing them up to the boys hanging from the windows, others kissing & embracing their tired brothers.
Younes from Sidi Bouzid said he was staying until all of the incuments from RCD have gone. He said he wanted "to be a citizen for the first time. To have my dignity. Why should I be forced from my home & family to find work cleaning toilets in Europe? I'll stay & God willing life will be better."  The non exhausted sang, danced, went away to eat, came back & sang & danced some more. "Hey hey rain, clean the trees leaves, a dream - like a rose - grows & the crescent moon becomes full. Enter the huts & shanty towns & water the angry flowers & inform my country's tears that the one who will wipe them away has come. Drop by drop on the paths, sing for the heart's thirst. Do not fear the clouds O free land, good times always follow the bad." A poem by Hamza Namira, an Egyptian singer. Not your average protest chant.

Meanwhile, the TV team from Hannibal were abused & forced to leave the scene with people beating their van & swearing. Later we learnt that the owner, Larbi Nasra, has been arrested & charged with treason. Treason? Accused of broadcasting false information before & after the 14th of January & for now trying to "incite strife" & bring back the old regime. The channel was closed for most of the afternoon & later brought back. The revenge begins. He was known to be a distant relative of Leila Ben Ali. A sign that the "interim" "government" want to distance themselves from Ben Ali's precendence? But by closing a channel & arresting its head?  Their programmes last night were mainly of people in Gafsa & Sidi Bouzid relating their experiences of the last few weeks & something more extraordinary, a presenter of Hannibal was talking frankly on camera to another journalist admitting how often, to keep their jobs, they were obliged to read out non- story government stories & relate the latest government initiatives, in order to maintain the status-quo that  Ben Ali's reign was a stable & progressive one. It stinks. But like so much else, this information comes, is not spoken of by any "authority" (in the Hannibal case an anonymous "authorised" source released a statement..) & a new day begins.

The maincured walls are covered in grafitti. The army stand & watch as occasionally some of the songs are directed at them. They smile, not too hard. The Prime Minister, even if he was in his office, wouldn't be able to get out and won't be able to get in tomorrow morning either. No wonder he isn't saying anything. And the elections? What of them? What of the inheritors & the new leaders? Where are their manifesto's, their programmes? No one in this crowd is asking for them. It's too early. It's a non violent unofficial official coup d'etat with half an etat still avoiding the void.

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3 days of mourning

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21st. 3 days of mourning have been declared to remember those who have died in the last 4 weeks. A mass sit in is organised for Saturday on Av. Habib Bourgiba, the constant focus of scenes in the capital. But the protesters continue.

Celebrations creeping closer

There is a strange phenomenon continuing at the moment in central Tunis. A protest tinged with celebration & a celebration tinged with protest. People are still shouting against the current temporary prime minister, Mohammed Ghannoushi & the "government", in brackets because there isn't one. UGTT, the stronger by the day general union of Tunisian workers, are out in the most numbers, along with all those who missed last Fridays incredible scenes on Av, Habib Bourgiba. There is a sense that alot of the continuing protest is by people who were either too scared at the time or not in Tunis. Then there is the Ennadha party, the Islamists. Making their prensence felt but with very little support, just behind where they were protesting yesterday is scrawled in graffiti 30 feet long, in french, "Tunisie: un pays démorcatique et laïcité" , Tunisia: a democratic and secualar country. One well placed for the western press gathered in the hotel opposite. But amongst the crowd the relief & jubilation can't help but seep through. Having ousted "the family" and Ben Ali so quickly leaves the sense that the real fight has been won. It's this that gives the crowd in the capital & those not part of it this sense of the bizzare. The "transitional" government has left a void. People are unsure how much to continue their despair & how much to celebrate. Mainly people are just exhausted.

Arguments errupted between those still marching up & down the avenue & those sitting drinking coffee & over priced orange juice on the pavement. "Traitors, get up & join us" was met with anger as more & more want a period of calm to bring an end to the curfew. Ghannoushi has said he will quit politics once he has helped organise the elections. But his complicity in Ben Ali's regime for the past 23 years means he has no trust.

Routine is slowly working its way back to Tunis. Men sweep the streets just behind the protesters, the cafés are open, people are queuing in banks, tourists cycle their bikes & take pictures next to the tanks but now the real work begins. How to make sense of the changes & possibilities?
Meanwhile in Sidi Bouzid, where this leaderless revolution began, men & woman, graduates & non graduates alike, sit around the centre of town still unemployed, desperate & hoping the legacy of the last 4 weeks won't be betrayed by the confusion & uncertainty currently occupying the place of a government.

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20th. Thousands gather at RCD h.q.

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Thousands gathered at RCD for the first time since Ben Ali fled last week as the army, reading well the situation & not out in any great numbers, helped take down the signs above the party headquarters.

Avenue Mohammed V, a main artery of Tunis, was closed as what was first just a few hundred turned into a few thousand. "Bread & water & no to the Rally(RCD)." The national anthem was constantly breaking out as well. One starting & hundreds joining. There was no violence but the divisons are now becoming clearer. What do we do with our new found freedom? Who will fill the void? Can we trust the technocrats who are the pistons of the system? Who's hands are bloody? When will the state of emergency end? When will the curfew end? When will the elections be held, 60 days or 6 months? People are starving for information & everything is changing so quickly that a state so used to dribbling censored information doesn't know how to cope with the tide people are demanding; a little transparency now the light has come..

 

Mourouj 3 - post curfew bullets continue

Breaking the curfew in Ariana tonight & in Kabbaria the night before without hearing shots & without the barrages that have been blocking the roads, we might be forgiven for thinking that these nights of long knives/bats/bed posts/rakes(!)/sledgehammers/m.d.f 2x4's were over. Well, Mourouj, a suburb in western Tunis, has broken the silence. The behemoth that is Facebook told me that shots were being heard in Mourouj 3. But so many unconfirmed & unconfirmable rumours are going around that I made a couple of calls. Seconds later I heard it on Al Jazeera too. How do they do it? Two cars were stopped at a barrage and started firing. No one was injured in that first exchange. Everybody from the barrage ran. The army followed the sound of the shots & came quickly.  For 30 minutes they faught, with one soldier being killed. A sniper got onto the roof of the mosque & kept the army held back. That's the latest. Helicopters are searching for the cars now.  Midnight.